Happy Days

The new security situation had almost stolen our hope of going on the excursions we first had taken for granted, such as the renown trip to faraway Dakhla with the beautiful sand dunes. But that was before today, when we finally saw light at the end of the tunnel we so desperately have refused to shut down. We might really (insh Allah - lets not forget the larger forces at play) go to Dakhla! Our ceaseless enthusiasm never fails to pay off in one way or another..

Another good piece of news is that we might have found a project which will help us keep in touch with and make a sustainable contribution to the community in Amgala after we leave. After a few failed attempts at gathering excitement over a garden project we have found support for resurrecting old sewing traditions. Traditionally, Saharawi women have made everything pertaining to the home with their own hands. For example, before, every dignified woman knew how to piece together a tent, a skill which was passed on through generations. However, many such important crafts are on the verge of being forgotten as the most senior generation is slowly slipping away. The disappearance of these skills is both due to the scarcity of proper handiwork equipment and the provision of carpets and cooking tools by humanitarian organizations - products which used to be made out of leather and other natural materials by Saharawi women. Other Dairas (districts) have succeeded in establishing centers where elderly women teach the younger generations their arts so as to preserve an essential part of Saharawi culture. These centers also offer an opportunity for women to work outside the home. A local female volunteer organization (مجموعة التواصل), which several of our family members are part of, would be responsible for running the project in Amgala, with help of Norwegian funds. We really hope this can become something.

Less unexpected but also quite exciting is the proximate arrival of December, the Christmas month and also the month of many happy events: Norwegian visitors both in the beginning and mid-month, the national Polisario conference which only happens every 5 years, and the reunion with friends and family in our white northern country at the end of the month. It seems like time is speeding, and there is so much to do still. Finally we have become busy, an almost forgotten feeling here in the camps where the only thing of abundance is time. It is a feeling we have missed. However, preparing for departure also means preparing to say goodbye to people who have become family and dear friends. So lets not think too much about that yet. Almost a third of our stay is still left. We will embrace this time.

Marta with her new malhefa and henna for Eid

My mother barbequing goatmeat where the tea is normaly heated

Monday, October 31, 2011 (by Hanne)

Still no official news about the state of the three kidnapped foreigners. Al-Qaeda has made a statement claiming responsibility for the act but that means little without any proof. We feel very safe in our Saharawi families (they still follow us everywhere we go), but can’t stop thinking about the miserable three, especially the man who was shot in his leg. Polisario is more quiet than before on the matter, but our sources tell us that they are still working to get the humanitarian aid workers in safety. Although official statements at the moment are few and vague, the rumors are plenty, and say the kidnappers’ car was surrounded near to the Mali border, but somehow managed to enter into Mali without the Saharawi forces being able to follow. Our own scanning of world news, albeit limited, suggests that the case has received little coverage, even in Spain and Italy, reminding us of how big issues often receive little media attention. This fact seems to be becoming something of a theme.

However, we know from experience that Saharawis are a determined people to whom no challenge is undefeatable. In our daily life here, this is particularly well demonstrated by our students. Lately there has been much discussion around whether we will move to Buccra, a different daira (district), after Eid. We have experienced some difficulties with the school we are currently teaching in, in Amgala. The small and scarce windows are our only source of light, which will be a problem when we have to close them once winter arrives. The total number of students is a concern as well, along with other minor issues. Yet, our students are intent on our staying. Several of our students are members of a volunteer organization they call Brigada los Libros. It was the brigade that found desks and chairs for the school (initially we sat on the floor). Now they are searching for car batteries for all three classrooms, after which they will install lamps. Car batteries are heavy, they require two people to be lifted short distances, and a car or donkey to be transported further. Our batteries must be carried to someone’s home after class every day to be charged. But the brigade is ready to find transportation and offer their private solar panels to our disposal. If the most important issues are solved by the end of the week, we will stay. Hanshouf.. (We will see..)

Regardless of our moving or staying we will spend Eid with our current families. Eid is arguably the most important holiday in the camps. Everyone buys new clothes and shoes, women go to the hamam (a Saharawi type of Turkish bath) and draw henna on their hands and feet. Many families buy new furniture. When the holiday starts, every family slaughters a goat for the feast. During the day, the Saharawis visit family and friends, especially elderly people. For newlywed women, this is a good opportunity to make the first formal visit to the husband’s parents, which involves bringing a hoard of gifts ranging from tables and tea sets to food or a goat. Our students have been counting the days for weeks and become more excited by the day. As we realize the importance of this holiday, so do we..

the fysical challenges continues

We are to be so lucky as to experience Eid. And this being the “bigger” Eid we are really looking forward to the celebration (and feeling a bit homesick while thinking of Christmas at home). Out first experience with Eid is being woken up at 5 o’clock in the morning to eat. Since be are here for the hole package, we all agreed to fast the day before Eid, as many people do here, of religious reasons. We on the other hand have cultural reasons, and for my sake I want to see how it feels. The families were of course surprised, happy and worried like they most of the time are when we make decisions.

The fasting includes no food or drink from sunset (05.30) till sundown (19.00). The lack of water is the most problematic for us, since we can just lay around all day writing or reading. The rest of the family have to clean the hole house, and with strong wind and dust everywhere - this is a big challenge. Since the medical aid is rear and limited, they are careful about their health. So if you have any sickness, feel nauseous or any kind of uncomfort, you will not fast. The most common is headache from lack of tea. Finally the Norwegian folk can feel like good Samaritans and bring forth the Norwegian painkillers “Paracet”.

At 18.30 all the family is called together into the tent, to be ready, sitting by the table looking at what is served. At exactly 19.00 the father utters Bismilleh. And so the family gathers together for a big meal together, with tea and all the food you can eat.