Thursday 11 November 2010

Action speaks louder than words

Life should have been more or less back to normal by now as it has been four days since we returned from 27th February (an administrative camp not to far from where we live) where we spent two days on a religious conference on human rights in the bible and the qu'ran, enjoying the luxuries of electricity and internet access. Also, seeing as Id Adha (an Islamic holiday in remembrance of Abraham's sacrifice of Ishmael. Same story as in the bible, but with the other son, and supposedly taking place in Mekka, where the Kaba is standing today) is coming up next week, the camp should be teeming with life and expectation. This, however, is not the case. Although people go about their business as usual, and preparations for the feast are being made, most are thinking more about their relatives and friends in the occupied areas than on whatever is going on here.

Last night Morocco made it pretty clear that their attendance at the informal meetings arranged between the two parts in the Western Sahara conflict, is nothing but an attempt to keep the UN happy. During the night before the last day of negotiations Moroccan forces attacked the tents set up outside El Aiun using (according to a friend of mine who just started working in the Saharawi media handling information coming from outside of the refugee camps) teargas and hot water, driving military vehicles through the tents, setting them on fire, and firing real ammunition, not rubber bullets as is sometimes used when police try to break up violent demonstrators. Until now, the demonstrations of the Saharawis has, according to our sources, been completely nonviolent, but as they were forced back into the El Aiun, many took to the streets rioting. Shops and banks has been set on fire, as has the local TV-station, and the city is in chaos. We have been told that between 20 and 30 Saharawis were killed, including a young boy that was hit by a car, and several hundred wounded (this was on tuesday, the 9th). The number of dead will probable rise in the next few days as wounded Saharawis keep away from the hospitals for fear of being arrested. The situation is, to put it mildly, out of control, and the pressure on Polisario to do something else than talking is growing. A lot of people were shocked when the Saharawi representatives decided to continue the meetings in the US after hearing about what the Moroccan military had done.

Most of the people living in “our” refugee camp now wants war, and even if Polisario is able to calm them down temporarily, there is no telling what will happen next fall, when the congress is to decide the future politics of the government. Last congress, the majority wanted war, but the leaders asked for just a little more time (originally they asked for just six more months) to try and find a peaceful solution. Four years has passed since then, and nothing has happened. After 35 years in limbo people no longer have faith in the UN and dialogue. For most, war seems like their best, if not to say only, chance of ever winning their independence.

Friday 5 November 2010

Basicly what I wanted to mention!

This is from another blog (http://www.codapso.org/en/node/1728) writing about some of the stuff I had written about myself. The post is a week old, and the number of people living in tents outside El Aiun is said to have passed 20 000. I would really like to know if anyone has heard about this in Norway. Polisario is c...alling on the UN to protect the people in the area, and to secure access to medicin, food, water and clothes, and to force Morocco to let the mediq in, but nothing hqs been done so far. The demonstrations has been going on for almost a month.

27 October 2010: Amnesty
International is calling on the Moroccan authorities to immediately
investigate the fatal checkpoint shooting of a 14-year old boy outside
a camp set up by Sahrawi protestors.Since 10 October 2010, thousands of Sahrawis have collectively left Laayoune to set up a camp in the desert about 10-13 kilometres east of the city. Some Sahrawi human rights defenders say that the camp
population has reached the tens of thousands; official sources reported
that there were 5,000 people last week in the camp.


Western Sahara is a territory contested between Morocco, which
annexed it 1975, and the Polisario Front, which calls for its
independence and runs a self-declared government in exile in the
Tindouf refugee camps in Algeria.

According to his relatives, Al-Nagem Al-Qarhi was shot dead on 24
October by Moroccan military officers, while in a car bringing supplies
to a camp set up by Sahrawi protesters demanding an end to their
economic marginalization by the Moroccan government.
“The disturbing details of this killing that must be
investigated immediately and transparently”, said Amnesty
International. “Morocco needs to show that it has not violated UN
standards on the use of firearms, or used excessive force as it chokes
off access, supplies and communications to the Sahrawi protest
camp.”

Al-Nagem died almost immediately after being shot in the kidney at
close range by Moroccan military forces as he sat in a car with six
others at a checkpoint, the victim’s sister Sayida has told
Amnesty International. The Moroccan Ministry of Interior has claimed that the car
“attacked a checkpoint”, and that the checkpoint was fired
on, but from another vehicle. Family members say the passengers
were seated when they were shot, and that they were bringing supplies
to relatives living in the protest camp. The other passengers in the car with Al-Nagem were also injured in the shooting, and then beaten by Moroccan police, according to Sayida’s testimony. The surviving victims were transferred
to a military hospital in the nearby city of Laayoune, where they were
found handcuffed to their beds when family members visited them the
next day. One has since been detained, and two taken in for
questioning. According to his family, Al-Nagem was buried the next evening by the Moroccan authorities, who have refused to allow his mother and siblings to see the body or tell them the location of the burial site.

The Moroccan military has kept a heavy presence around the camp,
established on 10 October by Sahrawis who left the city of Laayoune and
other Western Sahara cities en masse to demand improved job
opportunities and housing.Today a group of about ten Spanish journalists were prevented from entering the camp by the police. Last week, Moroccan officials are
reported to have used batons and teargas to prevent over a hundred
people travelling in cars from reaching the camp with supplies.
Amnesty International has called for the respect of Sahrawi
protesters’ right to freedom of assembly and warned that no
excessive force should be used to disperse protestors, in a letter
addressed last week to the Moroccan Minister of Interior.

Thanks to Codapso! (http://www.codapso.org/en/node/1728)

Thursday 14 October 2010

First Impressions

In the north-western corner of Africa, where the vast Saharan desert meets the atlantic ocean, crammed between Morocco and Mauritania, lies West Sahara. This is not where we are currently situated. The fact that West Sahara has been under the control of Moroccan forces since 1975 has nothing to do with why we are not there at the moment. It is, however, the reason why we are where we are, which is the south-western corner of Algeria, in a refugee camp called El Aiun.

We have now been here for two and a half weeks, and it is becoming increasingly difficult to sum up our first impressions. Nevertheless, we will try and give a brief overview of what the first two weeks have been like.

After spending approximately eight hours on a plane, and somewhere between ten and elleven hours in airports, we landed in Tindouf at three o'clock in the morning. Here, we were picked up by our local contact, Abba Lehbib, and driven out into the desert. After a while, although it seemed like there was nothing else but sand outside, Abba stopped the car and told us that this was where we were going to live for the next three of four months. So, we pulled our luggage out of the car and entered a small yard surrounded by sandbrick houses. After a warm meal and an equally warm welcoming session the time had finally come to call it a day. A few hours later we woke up to our first day in the camps, and so the summing up begins.
In general, I think I can say that our experiences until now has been mostly positive. Our families are great, people are friendly and helpful, the nightsky is indescribable and yet, some of the sunsets has been able to completely put it to shame. Furthermore, it is surprising how fascinating it can be just to sit on a small hill on the outskirts of the camp staring into the vast brown, flat nothingness stretching into the horizon. Also, it is kind of strange, at night, seeing the lights from Tindouf, knowing that only 15 kilometres away they have running water, electricity, internet, and basicly all the luxuries the people in the camps lack. Still, it must be said that the biggest problem here is not the material standard, but rather people feeling frustrated about seemingly being forgotten by the world.
The teaching is getting easier (and hopefully also better) day by day. We teach two classes each, trying to cover three and a half different levels. We have not been able to start any extra projects yet, but Lars is planning to start interviewing people sometime next week, and Hodan is giving extra English classes to people who are not able to come to the Bucra Center (where we teach) during the day. (We kind of feel that we have to get started soon seeing as Fernando, our mexican friend down here has been able to start his own garden, find a local library and befriend it's owner, and is generally just running all over the place. =) In addition to Fernando there are surprisingly many foreigners in the camp. Germans, spaniard, a frenchman, two danes (that we have not met yet) and a swedish man).
The only thing that has been, and is, a slight problem is the internet availability. Three days before we arrived it actually rained pretty bad, and the internet connection in Abba's ministry was knocked out. Because of this, we do not know how often we will be able to update this blog, however, we hope that we can get connection on a slightly irregular basis.

Til next time, so long (and thanks for all the fish)!

Wednesday 12 May 2010

This World

What effect does discussion have
When the ears of this world are deaf
What does demonstrating change
When the eyes of this world are blind
What effect does goodness have
When the mind of this world is clouded by evil
What does waiting change
When this world forgets about it
What effect does respect have
When this world doesn't respect itself
What does being peaceful change
When this world fails to recognize it

What choices do we have
When all that matters to this world is war.

Hope and pride is written in their eyes


South of the other refugee camps, in the middle of the beautiful sand dunes lies Dahla. The calmness and the goodness of the people meet you like the warm winds that blow across the sand dunes. The isolated location gives rise to the lack of many material things, but who needs this when the wonderful hospitality and care is so deeply rooted in its inhabitants.

Dahla is the perfect place for a filmfestival. The filmfestival that is arranged every year in Dahla attracts people from all over the world. The program covers various aspects of Saharawi culture and history and thus foreigners that present at the festival will enhance their knowledge about the Saharawi people and their situation. Also this event is a highlight for the population of Sahara as it attracts Saharawis not only from the other refugee camps, but also from various corners of the world to celebrate their identity and culture together.

The Saharawi culture is unique and the Saharawis protect and guard it carefully. The Saharawi identity is rooted in their culture and although change is a constant process many of their traditions are practiced the same way today as before the Moroccan occupation and before the Spanish colonization. As documentaries speaking about the rich Saharawi culture were shown at the filmfestival one could observe the pride in the eyes of the Saharawi audience as they were reminded once again of their heritage and origin. In addition to movies, the traditional camp that had been put up at the place of the festival gave a good picture of the traditional Saharawi life. It exhibited traditional artifacts used in the nomadic life in the “bedie”. Here one could also pass by to taste the traditional Saharawi tea, admire the extraordinary arts and crafts as well as fabrics and clothes, but most importantly feel the vibe of the amazing hospitality of the Saharawi people.
The program during the day consisted of learning about the Saharawi culture, but also attending various workshops related to expressing identity and culture through media. These workshops practiced writing stories, doing photography, acting, filming, recording and directing. Most of the workshops were organized by foreign teams who involved Saharawis in their work thus exchanging ideas and experiences.
In the evenings people gathered under the clear stars to watch movies and documentaries. One of the nights a documentary about the Saharawis situation was shown. This documentary covered all aspects of the conflict. It talked about the nomadic life of the people of the Sahara, the Spanish colonization, the freedom movements and the forming of Polisario, the Madrid agreement followed by the Moroccan and Mauritanian invasion, the war, the refugees, the building of the wall, the situation today with the extreme living conditions in the refugee camps in Algeria and the horrible human rights violations carried out in the Western Sahara that is still occupied by Morocco.
The documentary showed the Intifada, the peaceful demonstrations by Saharawis expressing their right to self determination. It portrayed Saharawis telling their story about being discriminated, tortured and imprisoned for reasons such as simply being Saharawi.
Watching the documentary touched me deeply, but what had the strongest effect was to watch it together with several dozen Saharawis who each and every one are personally affected by the conflict. All of them have family and friends in the occupied territories who are being suppressed and who can not live freely under the Moroccan authority. They all have family members who died in the war or while seeking refuge in Algeria.

The Saharawis are victims not only of deprived human rights and their right to live independently, but they are victims of economic interests that powerful countries have in their natural resources. It is unbelievable that the world can turn a blind eye to the situation of the Saharawis.
Where is the humanity? Where is the justice?

One thing is for certain, the unity of the Saharawis is stronger than the world's power greed. They've been through more than anyone though would be possible and they have not sacrificed this much just to give in to the injustice in this world.
To observe and feel the strength, persistence and unity of the Saharawis and the support that they receive from all corners of the world is what moved me the most during the time of the festival in Dahla.
The suffering of the Saharawi people will not continue for long. They have sacrificed and they have been patient, but the world has failed them. They are ready to take the situation in their own hands and to reclaim their rightful freedom.

Thursday 22 April 2010

Human rights forgotten?



A few weeks ago a group of human rights activists from the occupied territories came to visit the refugee camps for one week. When they returned to La'ayoun they were met by 1500 Moroccan civilians who beat them at the airport. This is one of many events staged by Moroccan authorities to spark conflict between Morroccan and Saharawi people.

The conflict has lasted for 35 years, and while the refugees wait in the desert, the human rights situation in the occupied territories deteriorates. It is completely incomprehensible that the UN mission MINURSO does not have a mandate to monitor and report on the human rights violations committed by Morocco. Polisario has stated that it invites the UN to monitor the human rights situation in the refugee camps. Morocco however, will not accept that MINURSO should have a human rights mandate in the occupied territories.

How is it possible for Morocco to keep the UN from monitoring the human rights situation? To achieve this, it is necessary to have powerful friends in the Security Council. With France on its side, Morocco can ensure that MINURSO does not get a human rights mandate. This is because France is a permanent member in the Security Council, and can use its veto against an enlargement of MINURSO's mandate.

That MINURSO has still not been given a human rights mandate shows not only that Morocco finds support in France, but also that the attention given to the conflict by the international community is minimal. Given the severity of the human rights violations in the occupied territories, and the difficult situation for the refugees in the camps in Algeria, it is incomprehensible that the international community seems both paralyzed and indifferent to the conflict.

What will it take to make the United Nations and the international community realize the injustice of the Moroccan occupation, and assume their responsibility to protect the human rights of all people?

Thursday 8 April 2010

Aid as a political game

If a family here was to live on their rations of aid, they would eat meat two times a year, and by no means have enough food. The reason why people here have the food that they need, is not thanks to the aid that they receive, but rather due to the family members that they have that work abroad, like in Spain. Those who do not have family abroad, are still included, due to the solidarity and collective sharing of the people. In this way, the real aid comes from their own families. Further, another type of support that really makes a difference, is the opportunities that countries like Algeria, Cuba and Libya give young Saharawis to study in secondary school and in university for free.

What is the purpose of aid when it is unable to cover the needs of the refugees here? The leader of the Saharawi journalist union UPES, Malainin Lakhal, told us that in his opinion, the main reason to uphold the aid flows is for the Saharawi state to maintain good relations with as many foreign countries as possible. The Western Sahara conflict is a forgotten conflict in many ways, and so the idea is that the countries that give aid, will also give more attention to the conflict. Even though the media coverage of Aminatou Haidar’s hunger strike was good in countries like Spain, the urgency that is needed to resolve the conflict is not present. After 35 years of waiting in the hot desert, insufficient amounts of aid does not suffice. If countries like Norway were truely interested in ending this conflict, they would contribute with political support, recognizing the independent Saharawi state, and speaking out against the grave human rights abuses committed against Saharawis in the territories that Morocco occupies. A few potatoes and some wheat will not enable the Saharawi refugees to return to their rightful homeland.

Thursday 1 April 2010

Our sister's wedding

Plates and cuttlery, tabels and casseroles, blankets and cushions, soap and water in big quantities were just some of the things that were brought to our family’s house the days before the wedding of our sister, Fatimatu. The Saharawi traditional wedding celebrations are unique and absolutely amazing. Being a part of the family that organizes the wedding, we were able to get a wole new impression and a better view of this special event.

The Saharawi wedding celebration is held at the house of the bride and her family. In Saharawi tradition the freshly baked husband and the wife will move to a house or tent near the wife’s family after the wedding. The wedding will last for two or three days. The first day is the day of the bride and the second day is the day of the groom. These two days are held for the family, extended family and friends who come as guests to the big tent that is put up near the bride’s family. The bride and the groom are themselves not present at this big celebration. The third day the bride has a seperate, small party with her closest friends and the groom does the same with his friends.

Every wedding is slightly different, but this is what we experienced at our family’s celebration.
The first day of our sister’s wedding was a Wednesday, so Tuesday afternoon and evening we were busy helping the family cutting vegetables, puting up the tents and organizing things for the next day. We also had our henna made on our feet and hands. Our sister, Fatimatu, spent the day in Tindouf, going to hammam, getting henna and braids. Wednesday morning Maria and I met with some of our student at the school where we teach English. We did not meet to have an English lesson with them, but to pick them up and take them to the wedding together with the goat that Maria and I bought for Fatimatu as a gift. Its Saharawi tradition to bring gifts to the wedding accompanied by hunking cars and lots of noise. When we arrived to the family, the goat was tied to the big tent and our students were invited in to make tea. At noon lunch was served to all the guests and the camel that was killed the same morning served its purpose.
In the afternoon more cars loaded with gifts arrived to the family. Typical gifts are things that are useful for the house of the new couple such as blankets, tea sets, cushions and sofas. In the evening more guests came to celebrate, drink tea and have dinner.
The next day the bride stayed in the house of her sister, which is close to the rest of the family. Her she was visited by her friends and later on by her husband and his family. At noon a band consisting of four musicians and a singer came to perform in the big tent. The people formed a circle around a free space in the middle of the tent. This free space was used as the dancefloor and as the brides sisters, of course we had to spend a couple of songs trying to imitate the Saharawi dance style.
After the music celebration, the lunch (a second camel) was served and the guests returned to their homes.

To us the wedding celebration was a great experience. To be able to contribute and actively take part in the activities here is what brings us the most joy. We feel that as every day goes by we become a greater part this society and Sahara becomes a greater part of us.

Thursday 18 March 2010

Impossible to Describe

The last couple of weeks have passed so quickly. It is surreal that we have been here for almost three months now. We are currently waiting for a reply from the Algerian authorities whether they will accept to extend our visas for additional months. We are really hoping for an extension as we feel that our presence here has a big effect on both the people we meet and on us. This week we organized workshops at the centre where we teach English daily. The workshops were related to the campaign against the illegal fishery agreement between the European Union and Morocco. To have the opportunity to make slogans and banners and to be able to voice their opinion on a video means a lot to our students. They all can not believe that the exploitation of their natural resources can go on without any major interference! To know that their pictures may have an effect on the future decisions regarding their country gives them hope, but the situation as a whole is nothing but frustrating.
We learn so much about the Saharawi people through our daily activities with them. Still after more than three decades in the refugee camps, the strength and the stamina of the Saharawi people is unbelievable and impossible to describe.

Thursday 11 March 2010

Marathon back to War?

The Sahara marathon is one of the biggest events organized in the refugee camps. Athletes from various parts of the world come to the refugee camps to participate in this demanding race.

One of the aims of the marathon is to increase the publicity around the Saharawi issue. The foreign participants of the marathon live with families in the refugee camps throughout their stay. This way they also lean about the Saharawi culture and way of living. They observe and experience the life of the people in the refugee camps with its amazing hospitality, love and care as well as the difficulties that the refugees face everyday.

The start of the marathon was celebrated with music, children in the traditional Saharawi costumes, Saharawi men riding camels, the presence of President Mohamed Abdel Aziz and many people both foreign and Saharawi. After the start of the marathon, Maria and I met the president thanks to Mohamed. Among the crowd that would like to have a word with the Saharawi president was also an elderly woman. She expressed her opinion about the current situation and she strongly believed that the Saharawi people should return to war was waiting for more than 30 years has not lead to any progress. We later heard that most Saharawis agree with her and that although they do not like war, they believe it is better than waiting in the Algerian desert for an unknown amount of time. Saharawi people are peaceful people who have the right to return to their country. Of course everyone would prefer a diplomatic and non-violent solution, but the Saharawi have tried everything and feel forgotten. To return to war can seem like a way to remind the world of their situation and it might lead to an actual solution between the Morocco and Western Sahara. The conflict in itself is nothing but unjust and it is unbelievable that it has been going on for more than three decades.

Solidarity

The Western Sahara refugee camps truly lives up to its reputation of being one of the best organized refugee camps in the world. Although the people living here have close to nothing in terms of material things, the care and the solidarity that they show amongst each other and towards all that support them is amazing. The Saharawi people are still waiting for a peaceful solution and to finally be able to return to their homeland. In spite of the fact that they are living in a refugee camp, the Saharawis know that life must continue. All children go to school and the good relationship between Algerians and Saharawis allow young Saharawis to attend Algerian high schools and universities. Although there is close to no paid work in the refugee camps, most Saharawis return to the camps after having received their education. Some work as teachers in one of the primary or secondary schools. Others work in the administrations or hospitals of the camps. Many young, well educated people work as volunteers in various institutions in the camps. One such institution is “Casa de Mujeres”, which is a school where women can learn languages and how to use a computer in order to work in the administration of the camps later. They also learn about and discuss health issues especially related to the women and the babies. The solidarity that the Saharawi people show is immense and this along with the strong bonds between family members and the wish to help each other drives many Saharawis back to the refugee camps and their people.
The strong community spirit creates the frame around the well organized refugee camps.
The supplies of food and necessities such as gas and soap arrive once every month and is carefully divided between the refugees. The women of the camps organize this distribution and together they ensure that everyone gets their share. The women are responsible for many things in the refugee camps and in practice they run the camps. However, the decision-making lies with the men who often hold the highest positions.

Generally, in a traditional Saharawi family, the man is the source of some income and thus often also the one with the power in terms of making the major decisions. The woman on the other hand is primarily responsible for the household, the food and the children. This is a full time job and especially the afternoons and evenings are busy as the husband and the children will be at home. Due to this, the initiatives that offer language courses etc to women are held in the mornings until midday. At the same time most of the institutions function as kindergardens, so that a small child should not be an obstacle to aquire a new skill.

The camps offer many possibilities taking into consideration that they are refugee camps. The open culture welcomes everyone to take part in various activities. This includes people with special needs. Every camp has a school for disabled youngsters and special programs to take care of disabled elderly. The students at the schools learn to draw, write and read just like in any other school. In addition they learn how to make arts and craft as well as artifacts and material that is useful for the life in the refugee camps. These range from scarfs and clothes to doors and tables. The schools for the disabled also focus on integrating its students into the society. There are exchanges between the students at the school for disabled and the other schools. Both parts have much to learn from each other. Some of the students at the school for disabled attend one of the other schools regularly in the afternoons. The schools for disabled also offer sport activities and organize competitions between the schools in the different camps. Recently five young Saharawis were chosen to compete in the paraolympics in 2011. This is a big inspiration to many of them and also another chance to try to tell the world about the situation of the Saharawi people. Hopefully the world leaders will help us to bring an end to this conflict and let the Saharawi people return to their rightful land.

The Saharawi Music and Dance are Twins

Article by Iwaly Dadi February 2010

Around the world there are many kinds of music and dance. In Western Sahara there is a special music and dance style that reflects the Saharawi culture and expresses their happiness, sadness, hopes and aspirations.

The Saharawi music is similar to the Mauritanian because most Mauritanians speak the same language that we speak. Our language is called Hasania. However, we have our own, more modern music. Many Saharawi songs talk about our problems, as we are refugees waiting to return to our homeland. The songs talk about women and children whose husbands and fathers went to the war and never came back. They talk about death, about life in the refugee camps, about religion and about asking God to help us. Some of the songs are about the uprising and the civil protests against the actions carried out by the Moroccan authorities in the occupied Western Sahara.
The songs talk about the hope to return to our homeland. When I listen to our music it makes me think about my family, my little brothers and my parent's advices. I wonder how their lives are and what they are doing. I remember the good times when I was playing football with my friends in the sand with bare feet.

When talking about Saharawi music, dancing has to be mentioned. A Saharawi singer once said that the music and the dance are twins. Trilling is also a part of the Saharawi music culture. The women trill to express happiness. They trill when their children pass the exams, when there is a wedding, when a family member or friend comes back after having spent time in another country and so on.

We have many singers in the refugee camps both men and women, old and young people. They sing for the national ceremonies and at the weddings. At the wedding parties the singer and his band plays in a big tent. This is the place where the man and the woman get married. The audience forms a circle around the middle of the tent. The singer asks two or more persons to dance. When they finish, others take over. Both men and women dance at weddings. The weddings are also good opportunities for people to show themselves as youth may find their future partners at ceremonies such as these. To attend a Saharawi wedding is an unforgetable experience and after having experienced one, you will look forward to the next. You can see the beauty of the women and the men when they dress up for the weddings and move to the music that brings them so much joy.

I really enjoy Saharawi music. It makes me feel alive. It both reminds me of my chldhood and makes me think about my future and about what I hope to be. However, it also makes me think about the Saharawi's situation and about the human rights violations that are carried out by Moroccan authorities against Saharawis everyday.

One Saharawi singer says in his song: “Salam, Salam where is Salam... hoping to live in peace that will hopefully spread not only to my country, but to all.”

Inside the Tent

Article written by Iwaly Dadi January 2010


The Saharawis in the refugee camps are living in cloth tents. All the family members including the father, the mother and the children are living in one tent where they sleep and eat. The tent is called the Jaima and the women have the main responsibility for it. They look after it and make sure it is tidy and in a good condition. The Saharawi people struggle because of the extreme weather conditions which make life in the refugee camps very difficult.

Life under the Jaima changes depending on the weather conditions. When it rains the water gets into the tent and soaks everything. When it is cold the people have nothing to heat the tent with. On the other hand, when it is hot the extreme heat makes life really hard. The Saharawis live under the mercy of nature. When the conditions are normal life is OK, but when it changes we start to worry.

The Jaima can also be dangerous. Under windy conditions something sharp may fall on the tent and hurt the people inside it. My mother gets worried when she sees the weather change. She asks God to stop the wind as it will be hard for her to repair the tent again. It took her a long time to sow it.

We have mixed feelings under the tent. We think about both the difficult and the good things. This is how the Saharawis can fight the circumstances they are in.

The hospitality of the Saharawi people is unique. Our jaimas are open all the time and we greet everyone that comes to us. When someone comes and says Salam Alaikum, the people will greet him and make him feel at home. The Saharawis show a special hospitality towards guests. The tea is a symbol of the Saharawi's generousity. They won't let you go before you have had tea with them. The tea session is very traditional and there are many details about it.

The Saharawis drink three cups of tea, each one with its own story. They say that the first one is bitter like life, the second one is sweet like love and the third one is smooth like death.

If you have a chance to visit the Saharawi families in their tents, the delicious tea, the mint smell and the warmth of the family will give you an unforgettable experience. Despite the difficulties that the Saharawis face, there are always moments of joy and happiness.

The tent is the temporary house for Saharawi refugees until they return back to their homeland. They live far away in exile for a human goal. The goal is the right for all nations all over the world to live free and independent and to enjoy their natural resources. The Saharawis look forward to a bright future with freedom and democracy. By letting the Saharawis decide on their own future, the current situation will end. It will bring an end to the suffering as well as the life in the tents, which now have lasted for more than three decades.

Thursday 18 February 2010

Caring for eachother

We are in a refugee camp. There are no paid jobs, there is limited amounts of food, there is no electricity, but there is love and care.

A few weeks ago Maria and I visited Dajla. It is one of the refugee camps and it is situated far away from all the other camps. Dajla is unique not only due to its location, which is in the middle of the sand dunes, but also because the people living there are more isolated than the people in the other refugee camps. The life in Dajla is more calm. People have more time for each other and taking care of each other is their main priority. There is no paid work in Dajla, but the organizations there are some of the best run organizations I have seen. There are several schools were women learn how to make carpets, clothes, bags, scarfs and artifacts that they can sell on the market. These schools also give the women the possibility to learn languages such as Spanish, French and English, learn how to use a computer and how to use cameras and develop the pictures. These type of initiatives might seem small, but they make a huge difference to many of the women. The fact that the woman is not dependent on the man is very important also here. Money is power in many ways...

These women do not only care for themselves and their family, but also for the whole population of Dajla. Some of the women are now making 7000 school uniforms for the children of the camp. All of this without getting paid for it. It seems as if the humanitarian aid between the people in the camps is stronger than the humanitarian aid that the Saharawis receive from other countries and NGOs.

In Dajla we also visited a school for handicaped. This school has hardly any resources or material, but it is a place where they can learn to do something and to socialise. The school’s main goals are to give everyone an education, to integrate them into the society and to teach them how to live as independently as possible. It is wonderful that such initiatives and schools exist here and it is amazing that they seem to work more effectively than many such initiatives in our country.

Thursday 28 January 2010

The continued oppression of the Saharawi people

Today we had a meeting with a Saharawi human rights organisation, that works with the human rights violations committed by the Moroccan government against the Saharawi people in Western Sahara.

There are over 500 missing Saharawi persons, and many of them are believed to have died in Moroccan prisons. The majority of these were not even political activists, but were abducted simply due to their Saharawi identity.

Many of those detained in Moroccan prisons are tortured and maltreated in overcrowded spaces. We have seen many photographs of those who have been abused, also outside the prisons. We met with a man who had himself been imprisoned due to his political activism. On the 21st of May 2005, Saharawi demonstrations against Moroccan oppression were initiated as a peaceful intifada. The protests were severly cracked down on, and the man we met was one of those detained. That he shared his story with us is one of the stongest things I have experienced. The Moroccan soldiers came to his house, and sexually abused his sister and his mother while he was there. He was then taken to a Moroccan prison, where he was tortured for several days. When he was finally brought before a tribunal, the judge told him that he could have his self-determination in the Moroccan prison. Clearly the tribunals are not independent, and will not give you a fair hearing.

Right now there is a Spanish judge who wants to bring some of the Moroccan responsibles of the human rights abuses to court in Spain. Hopefully, this can succed. However, the Spanish government is not actively promoting the Saharawi cause. While the Spanish people have done very much to support the Saharawi, the government has not yet denounced the human rights abused committed by Morocco. Spain has strong commercial interests in Western Sahara, and has access to 35 % of the phosphate of the occupied territories, as well as gaining from the EU fisheries deal with Marocco, that opens up for EU fishing on the coast of Western Sahara. A group of EU lawyers has deemed this illegal, as international law forbids the exploitation of the natural resources of a occupied territory without the consent of its people.

When it comes to the French government the situation is worse. Due to its close relations with Marocco, it has persitently used its veto in the UN Security Council to stop the MINURSO from getting a mandate to protect human rights. This means that the UN force in place cannot protect the Saharawi people from Morroccan abuses. The MINURSO force was installed to secure the popular referendum over the fate of Western Sahara. However, the referendum has still not taken place. Meanwhile, MINUSRO forces are allocated twice the amount of funding that the refugee camps get in total.

The dire human rights situation in the occupied territories make it even more clear that without a political solution the Saharawi people cannot be free.

Thursday 21 January 2010




Giving birth in the desert

A few days ago one of the sisters in my family told me her story of pregnancy.
Being pregnant in the refugee camps must be so difficult and very dangerous. There is little health care and the risks are many. My sister told me that the first time she was pregnant, she was pregnant with twins. It was one boy and one girl. When the day came that she gave birth to them, she lost her babies. This tragedy repeated itself and the baby boy that she gave birth to a year or so later also died during childbirth. As she told me this I was in shock, but her face didn't show any sign of sadness. As a matter of fact not much emotion at all. It was as if she had talked about the loss of her babies a houndred times before and with time had managed to block out the emotions connected to the memory.
Suddenly her eyes lightened up and she smiled as she looked at Sheyach, her 6 months old baby boy. Sheyach had survived. Sheyach did not get hurt during birth, but his mother lost much blood and she is still recovering.
Sheyach is the centre of attention in our family. Everybody that comes in will hold him, feed him, play with him and talk to him. He is unique and very special. The family believes in his strength and they have even started feeding him camel meat and making him taste the Saharawi tea, so I am sure he will become a strong, intelligent Saharawi.
I have now been with Sheyach's family for 2 weeks and I've only heard him whine once. This baby really never cries. He is never left alone and always surrounded by love and laughter. It is amazing how the family here do everything together. There is no destinction between adult and child. There is no such thing here as "adult time" or "for adults only". The family is one and they share everything. The bonds between the family members and also amongst the Saharawis are very strong.

I want to tell one more pregnancy story. When the grandmother in our family was 9 month preganant, she rode a camel all alone in the Saharawi desert. She was on her way from one place to another when she suddenly had to give birth. She had no choice but to climb off the camel and give birth all alone in the sand. There was nobody around to help her. Luckily it went ok and nothing happened to the newborn baby girl, named Mula. The mother cut Mula's navel chord and rapped her in a blanket. She climbed back on the camel with the baby in her arms and rode to her destination.

These two true stories are examples that show the strength of the Saharawi people. It shows their determination and their resistance. Together it represents both the importance of ceasing the day and the hope for a better future.

Thursday 14 January 2010

Marhaba

The stars in Buccra are the most beautiful I have ever seen, and they have marked the beginning of a wonderful stay. We've been here for less than a week, and already I feel like a part of the family.

These few days have been full of new experiences. Everyday we drink the Saharawi tea, and put on our beautiful melhaffas. We have even had time to get henna for our hands, and I like mine better like this. The family includes us in all parts of their lives, and we have already been to a Saharawi wedding with its traditional dance. We have had two days of teaching and the students are great. In the afternoon we have Arabic lessons with a very good Arabic teacher called Mohammed.

What strikes me most with the people we have met, and the family we live with is their enormeous warmth and openness. The ability to include others the we they do is something I think most Norwegians could learn from. Some of the young people and the children in our family speak Spanish, but many just speak Hassaniya. Still, we communicate well and their warmth shines through.

There are many humanitarian organisations here that run different projects of all kinds, but far too few work with the root of the problem,- the political situation and the Moroccan occupation of Western Sahara. We are planning to distribute a petition on the illegal fishing outside the coast of Western Sahara, and the fishing agreement the EU and Morocco. We will work with the Polisario, and hopefully distribute it across the different camps. The campaign is run by different European organisations, and you can read more about it on www.fishelsewhere.eu.


Mæesemallah!