Written by Marius:
The Sahrawi Refugee Caps outside Tindouf are similar, but different. Just like cities in other countries, they have their own special and defining aspects. This blog post is an informative run through of the different camps, in our view.
There are five residential camps, four of which are close to Tindouf (within 50 km): Layounne, Smara, Auserd and 27th of February. The distant Dakhla is 140 km to the south. In addition, the administrational camp Rabouni near 27th of February hosts all government institutions. In this post, I will describe the impression I have of the different camps.
Layounne: This is the camp in which we have lived and worked. It is big, both in size and population. It is close to Tindouf (15 km), and the seven Dairas (parts into which the camps are divided) stretch eastward like a string of pearls. In comparison with the other camps, not that many foreigners are found Layounne. They fly right above before landing in Tindouf, but often head to the other camps. Despite the close proximity to Tindouf, there is no electricity for Layounne residents. The nights are dark, the days are calm. In the north, low and flat-top mountains mark the border with Algeria. On top of these mountain is an Algerian military camp, and when they practice with live ammunition a spectacular lightshow is displayed. In the south and east, there is nothing but vast desert. To the east you can catch a glimpse of Tindouf infrastructure, which creates an orange glow on the eastern horizon in the night. Layounne is big, the resources are scarce and the Sahrawis there are extremely welcoming and hospitable towards foreigners. A continuous presence is genuinely appreciated by the people – at least this is our impression from Bucraa.
Smara: This is the biggest camp, and has more of an urban feel (to the extent this concept can be applied) than the other camps. There are a few international institutions here, including an American School and a computer center. Smara has permanent internet, and this little detail makes it miles closer to the outside world. Smara is used to foreign guests, as especially Spanish people visit frequently. Smara is densely populated and spread over a big area, and it would probably be a magnificent sight from the air. Together with Layounne, they host the annual Sahara Marathon. And it has restaurants.
Auserd: This camp is the only one without a paved road connection. It camp is built like a giant circle, with an open field in the middle and the houses widely scattered around. Thus it would probably also be a magnificent sight from the air. It is sandy, windy and the omnipresent mud-based infrastructure is quite worn and torn. Auserd feels like it is in some vast void, far away from everything. Perhaps a remedy to this is the permanent electricity that is coming soon. Also more of the nomad desert feeling is present here, which naturally is important to the Sahrawis. Auserd feels very authentic, and for some reason the local police are supposedly much stricter.
27th of February: This camp derives its name from a school, which is also the center of the camp. Many of the government and administrational staff lives here, as it is close to Rabouni. The president has his tent and house right in the centre, and they are just the same as everyone else’s tents and houses. The only difference is a house intended for meetings with the Sahrawi population. Internet is present here, but at the speed of an upside-down donkey backwards in sandstorm. 27th of February has permanent electricity, and thus daily activities become less strenuous. Electric equipment (ovens, washing machines, refrigerators, microwaves, stoves etc) is cheaper and easier than the old fashioned solutions, and so many people gather that the population of 27th of February are richer than the others. However, if the other camps would get electricity they would be exactly the same after a little time.
Dakhla: Deep south, following the road to an Algerian quarry, you will find Dakhla. It is well regarded for its tranquillity, beauty and resemblance to areas in the occupied Western Sahara. Most of this comes from the fact that they have stunning sand dunes, which are indeed stunning. Security in Dakhla is a bit stricter, due to terrorist activities in (relatively) nearby desert areas (mainly Mali, Mauretania and Niger, who struggle with active Al-Qaida branches and other local bad boys). Trips to the dunes are always with armed escorts. Nevertheless, the stereotypical beauty of the Sahara Desert is found in Dakhla. Some Sahrawis go on holiday here, and the landscape is quite different from the other camps. Less rocks, more sand (in your clothes and backpack) and more green areas. Dakhla hosts the FiSahara Film Festival, which this year was held between the 2nd and 8th of May.
All in all, the camps are just like cities with different personalities. It is great to visit them all, especially when you have stayed for a while. After living three months in Bucraa, our hearts and heads will remain with Layounne. When Sahrawis ask where we live, we answer “Bucraa, Layounne”. They give us a funny look, and then ask where we actually live. We repeat our previous answer.
